 by Panndyra, Goddess of Chaos
Thanks for taking the time out of your busy schedule to speak with me, Nigel. You broke into the industry much the same way as the girls on “America’s Next Top Model” do. Would you tell my readers about your big break on “The Clothes Show”?
It’s true. One of the reasons I could put my hand over my heart and say yes “America’s Next Top Model” can give someone a career is because of the similar experience I had. When I was 18, I was studying fashion at school. My girlfriend and my mum wanted me to enter this competition. I went to an audition. It was much like the auditions for “America’s Next Top Model”. I did a catwalk. I was surprised when I got selected. This was back in ‘88 or ‘89.
I went to Birmingham {England}. We had tasks to perform and shoots to do. It was a lot like Top Model. I also got a lot of exposure because “The Clothes Show” was a popular TV show in Britain at the time.
I dropped out of college after that experience. I just thought I’d take a year off to do some modeling and see where it went. I had made it to the top 3 on the show and got a lot of work. I worked steady as a model for 10 years - that's a pretty long career in this industry. Then, I became a photographer, which I still do. And now, here I am full circle.
So, how did you get involved in America’s Next Top Model?
My photographic skills were what got me in the door. The show was looking for photographers because each episode is shot by a different photographer. I am friends with Jay Manuel and Tyra and, as a result of my acquaintance with them, I was asked to shoot an episode.
They (the series creators, executives, etc.) met with me and the network came back to me and asked me if I’d like to be a full-time judge. I said, “Yeah, sure, I’d love to.” This was before the show got really big. It’s been quite an amazing adventure.
How did your experiences as a model help you as a photographer?
I’m sympathetic to my subjects. I do a lot of portraiture. I know what it’s like to be that person. I’ve been that person. I know it can be intimidating. A still camera photo shoot is a very intimate experience.
Basically, I try and put myself in their (my subject’s) position and wouldn’t ask anything of them that I wouldn’t do myself. I do that with judging too. The judging on “Top Model” is similar to when we do “casting” for a shoot.
Are models born or made?
It’s a mixture of the two. You get both types. I’ve been in the business long enough to know the difference. I didn’t think about modeling as a career initially. I’m kind of tall to be a model. When I got involved in the industry, I looked at who else was doing it.
Some people want to be models and make themselves right. They’ll diet and exercise – do just about anything to fit. It can be tough, though because you’re going to be put up against people who are naturally gifted genetically. They can eat junk and do nothing and still be in great condition.
What makes a great photo?
You can’t really teach someone how to make “face”, it’s sort of either they have it or they don’t. It’s like what Tyra calls “street fine”. You know you’ll see someone on the street and they look cute, but that doesn’t necessarily translate to a good photo.
The lights and the angles of the face and other factors go into making a great photo. A model has to be like an artist’s palette. She may look bland in person, but it’s the raw material – more like a canvas. A canvas that we can work with. Shandi (Season 2) was a lot like that. At first, I wasn’t really sure about her. When we went to Milan, we were doing a shoot and she had this big hair and this fantastic makeup and she just looked amazing.
Last season Ann had a beautiful face. Unfortunately, it wasn’t always easy to work with. I didn’t shoot her last season, though so I can’t say too much about it. Since then, Ann’s learned how to angle her face and position herself better. She's a working model here in New York. In fact, at least the top 6 of each season of the series are working in the industry.
What qualities are you looking for in America’s Next Top Model?
When Tyra first designed the show, there weren’t as many specifics. We’ve been working on this – this is our 4th season. {Seasons 5 and 6 are in the works right now!} As we progress, the idea of the Top Model is becoming clearer and clearer to us.
We have a better idea of what we want now. We’re looking for some very mainstream, not too avant-garde. America goes for the American Pie-type of beautiful girl. She’s got to be approachable like Tyra, Cindy (Crawford) and Nikki Taylor.
We want a new face and a personality that’s going to attract people. This show gives the girl with a great personality a chance, especially if she has the public behind her. If she's gorgeous too, so much the better.
Of course, this business changes as often as the seasons. We try to keep our finger on the pulse of what’s fresh and new. But, if a girl stepped in on Top Model who could change it all up, we’d go for it.
We really just want someone who wins on as many levels as possible, someone who has potential to grow.
Yaya and Eva are a prime example. We felt that Yaya may have won the competitions and taken some great pictures, but she was still Yaya at the end. She hadn’t really changed at all. Eva, on the other hand, really did evolve. She wasn’t my favorite in the beginning, but she made a big impact throughout the season.
That leads me to the following question - who have your favorites been from each season?
I was a really big fan of April in season 2, but I think everyone knew that. I was always rooting for her and I got out-voted. So, it really is a panel decision on who moves forward and who wins. I’ve worked with her since then. I liked Catie too. Mercedes - she’s a sweetheart. We’ve worked together as well. Ann also came into my studio too recently.
What can we expect from “Cycle 4”? How is it different from the first 3 cycles?
We moved production – we are no longer in New York. We’re in Los Angeles. The weather will be beautiful throughout the season. There’s a great spirit among the cast and crew this season. We have a lot of fun.
And you can see some of my pictures this season.
The girls are a great bunch of characters. This is the most beautiful bunch we’ve ever had. I shot them and it was like “whoa”. It helps too that the girls seem to be partly-trained on what we’re looking for from watching the previous seasons and that makes this competition a little different too.
Is Tyra really as emotionally involved with the models as she seems to be?
The models are almost like Tyra’s children. She gets so emotionally involved. She cries almost every time when a girl gets eliminated. It often turns into a sob fest. We all get attached to the girls during the process.
How do you and the panel perceive your role on the show?
We try to be constructive and give the girls information that’s going to help them move forward in their careers. We have to make the show fun and interesting so people will watch but we also want to help the girls learn as much as they can. We are all a bit protective of the girls.
Do you have any advice for aspiring models out there?
As a model, sometimes you have to do some strenuous stuff. For example, I did a shoot at one time when I was hanging upside down for 5 hours. I had bruises all over. I’ve worked with spiders, done rock-climbing a lot of other physical things. The stuff we make the girls do on Top Model isn’t all that unusual in the industry. Be prepared.
Don’t judge yourself against too many other people. Just be as confident in yourself as possible but also be realistic. There’s lots of rejection in this business – even for a successful model.
Be on ‘show.’ I’ve learned a lot from being a photographer. I know what the clients are looking for. I see how girls let themselves down by not dressing like a model or presenting themselves the right way.
Be professional. Clients don’t make a decision of casting a model lightly. They spend a lot of money on a model and the shoot itself. They don’t want to drop that much money without knowing that someone will do their product justice.
I’d like to thank Nigel for taking the time to speak with me about “America’s Next Top Model”. He was a great interview subject. To find out more about this former model who's now a world-renowned high fashion photographer, check out: http://www.upn.com/shows/top_model4/judges.shtml.
Don’t forget to watch “America’s Next Top Model”, which is currently in its 4th season on UPN. It airs Wednesdays at 8 pm EST/7 pm CST.
**Photo courtesy of CBS/UPN**
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